Hi Guys, I am trying to get the pivot shaft out from my 1963
R60/2's front forks and am not having much luck!!! I have the nut
removed and when I try to remove the shaft, the forks begin to
spread instead of the shaft head rising.
I've tried using Penetrene( used to loosen seized parts), using a
mallet and gently prying the pivots....all to no avail. Nothing I do
seems to help. Maybe the next step is to try some heat or possibly
hacksawing the shaft between the pivot points. Anybody got any ideas?
Disassembly of R60/2 Earles forks
-
Allan Atherton
Re: Disassembly of R60/2 Earles forks
I see on the /2 Yahoogroup that you finally got the pivot bolt out. You said:
"After soaking the fork in Pentrene, I clamped the forks, unscrewed the shaft 1/2 a turn or so, and then used a drift an hammer to move the shaft. I then repeated again and again......After about an hour, it finally came loose. The shaft had black areas where the bearing had been sitting, but no scoring. The bearings were completely covered in rust and one fell apart as the shaft was removed."
"After soaking the fork in Pentrene, I clamped the forks, unscrewed the shaft 1/2 a turn or so, and then used a drift an hammer to move the shaft. I then repeated again and again......After about an hour, it finally came loose. The shaft had black areas where the bearing had been sitting, but no scoring. The bearings were completely covered in rust and one fell apart as the shaft was removed."
-
tony
Re: Disassembly of R60/2 Earles forks
Could be rusted solid to bearings and/or forks at bolt's head end. Hard to tell.Presume nut end is free, hence fork spread. .
AT YOUR RISK - not tried!
If paint damage is not a problem, put hardwood separator (exact size) between forks just above Earles tube and compress with a clamp outside forks and in line with hardwood, to brace forks and prevent their spread.
Lie forks on side (best?) with jammed side below and allow liberally applied Penetrine to fall down Earles tube and do job to bearing, over days, and/or
yes, apply heat to jammed end and then
tap bolt end with copper mallet gently (with forks on their side).
With 2 pairs of hands, heat jammed end of forks when upright and, with good, tight ring spanner, put torque on bolt instead, to free from forks at least.
Or can you support forks with jammed end, surface protectected, above an exactly adjusted open vice, for example, to give jammed fork a solid but protective surface to resist mallet blows and put all shock into breaking the jam?
'Bolt' may move and drop out.
Even a 1" length of steel pipe, cleanly cut dead square, on a solid surface with internal diameter that is just outside bolt head's size, would allow the start of the bolt's movement with the Cu mallet blows.
Soft landing for the bolt when freed, if falling!
Watch those machined surfaces for the new bearings, if they are not pitted beyond use.
If in doubt or desparation, take to sympathetic vintage repairers with a soft touch for their help.
Their fee will be likely to be less than a new bolt.
AT YOUR RISK - not tried!
If paint damage is not a problem, put hardwood separator (exact size) between forks just above Earles tube and compress with a clamp outside forks and in line with hardwood, to brace forks and prevent their spread.
Lie forks on side (best?) with jammed side below and allow liberally applied Penetrine to fall down Earles tube and do job to bearing, over days, and/or
yes, apply heat to jammed end and then
tap bolt end with copper mallet gently (with forks on their side).
With 2 pairs of hands, heat jammed end of forks when upright and, with good, tight ring spanner, put torque on bolt instead, to free from forks at least.
Or can you support forks with jammed end, surface protectected, above an exactly adjusted open vice, for example, to give jammed fork a solid but protective surface to resist mallet blows and put all shock into breaking the jam?
'Bolt' may move and drop out.
Even a 1" length of steel pipe, cleanly cut dead square, on a solid surface with internal diameter that is just outside bolt head's size, would allow the start of the bolt's movement with the Cu mallet blows.
Soft landing for the bolt when freed, if falling!
Watch those machined surfaces for the new bearings, if they are not pitted beyond use.
If in doubt or desparation, take to sympathetic vintage repairers with a soft touch for their help.
Their fee will be likely to be less than a new bolt.