What is a good first Vintage BMW to buy
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Michael
What is a good first Vintage BMW to buy
I am looking for a vintage bmw bike to ride on nice days in Southern California. The bike must be restored and in perfect shape. If you can help, please e-mail me.
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Allan Atherton
Re: What is a good first Vintage BMW to buy
It is not clear how old a bike you want. The term "vintage" is defined by VBMWO at 25 years old. A 1978 R100/7 would be vintage by that definition. Some people would say that vintage should start with the /5 series of 1970-73, but other people would say the 12 volt electrical systems, electric starters and high pressure filtered oil are not vintage. Perhaps the 1955-1969 fork /2 series are vintage, but VBMWO actually defines them as "classic". Then there are the Post-war and Pre-war bikes.
Most likely you want an early 1970s /5-/6 model, generally called Airheads, or the 1960s models, generally called Slash 2s.
Of those, I think the most desirable are the R75/5 from 1970-73 and any R69S from the 1960s. There was a big change in the bikes in 1970 with the /5s, and the engines are sturdier.
Any of the other models from those years are also nice, if that is what you should find instead. There should be no lack of these bikes in Southern California.
Look in the Airhead and Vintage Sections of the IBMWR Marketplace, and in the Member Classifieds sections of the VBMWMO site.
Be careful in buying, and first read Ted Verrill's Guide and Jeff Dean's Questions.
If buying a pre-1970 BMW, determine whether the slingers have been cleaned. If they have been cleaned, it should have been done by a very qualified person. The subject is covered by Marco Hyman and Craig Vechorik.
Most likely you want an early 1970s /5-/6 model, generally called Airheads, or the 1960s models, generally called Slash 2s.
Of those, I think the most desirable are the R75/5 from 1970-73 and any R69S from the 1960s. There was a big change in the bikes in 1970 with the /5s, and the engines are sturdier.
Any of the other models from those years are also nice, if that is what you should find instead. There should be no lack of these bikes in Southern California.
Look in the Airhead and Vintage Sections of the IBMWR Marketplace, and in the Member Classifieds sections of the VBMWMO site.
Be careful in buying, and first read Ted Verrill's Guide and Jeff Dean's Questions.
If buying a pre-1970 BMW, determine whether the slingers have been cleaned. If they have been cleaned, it should have been done by a very qualified person. The subject is covered by Marco Hyman and Craig Vechorik.
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MIchael Snowdon
Re: What is a good first Vintage BMW to buy
I really like the look of the 50's bikes. I am not looking for speed, but more of a cruiser down pacific coast highway.
Thanks for the information you have given me.
Michael
Thanks for the information you have given me.
Michael
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Allan Atherton
Re: What is a good first Vintage BMW to buy
Not clear what you mean by 50's bikes. The 50's bikes from 1955-1960 looked identical to the 60's bikes. And the 50's bikes from 1950-1955 were almost identical to the 60's bikes except for their suspension.
I think you mean you like the 1955-1969 bikes and not the 1970-on bikes. There aren't too many '55-'59 bikes, and '60-'69 are more commonly available.
I think you mean you like the 1955-1969 bikes and not the 1970-on bikes. There aren't too many '55-'59 bikes, and '60-'69 are more commonly available.
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Prosper Keating
Re: What is a good first Vintage BMW to buy
Any 1955 - 1969 R50 or R60 in good condition will be perfect for cruising down the coastal highway. The Earles fork has its supporters and detractors. It is true that the fork has to be in top shape otherwise you will experience unnerving shimmies above 45 mph and perhaps even tankslappers.
It is obviously a good idea to buy a well-maintained machine from someone whose toolkit consists of more than a hammer and chisel...or who can provide receipts for maintenance by recognised, reputable workshops with expertise in 1950s and 1960s Beemers.
I shan't go into a complete checklist of points to look for because I imagine you know what to look for when buying any used motorbike. But with 1955-69 BMWs, there are a few things you can check before buying, especially if you get a test ride.
The brakes are good but the drums have a tendency to go oval. You'll feel this quickly enough as you brake! Skimming cures it but you still have to keep an eye on the drums.
Look for leaks in the fuel tank, especially with the aftermarket "Schorsch Meier" 24 litre tank. Notorious rust hole spots include the areas behind the retainer for the kneepads on the standard 17 litre tank - they trap water - and the front seams on the Meier tank.
Make sure the dynamo is charging! These can be expensive to repair/replace, especially the regulator. Mark sells a very good electronic replacement which is on one of my bikes. A real fit-and-forget part. But the old electro-mechanical regulator is reliable too. I rough test when looking at a bike for sale is to switch on the headlamp and bring the revs up to around 1800 - 2000 rpm, at which point the full charge rate kicks in: the headlamp beam becomes slightly stronger and then steadies. If this doesn't happen, ask questions.
If you get a test ride, take it for a few miles, not just around the block. Then have a look under the gearbox where the crankcases form a sort of ledge. If there is oil there, you have a weeping rear crank seal. Not too much of a problem but it can cause clutch slip, requiring a bit of feathering to burn the oil off the plates...which is not an ideal situation as clutch plates are expensive.
Anyway, these are just a few little pointers to bring into play when negotiating the purchase of a 1955-69 BMW boxer. You'll find plenty more on this forum and others /2-related websites. The R69S is a fine machine too. If you find one for a reasonable price, snap it up. Almost twice the bhp can't be a bad thing. Of course, it does require more fettling because the motor, in a higher state of tune, is much more sensitive to irregularities.
Prosper Keating
It is obviously a good idea to buy a well-maintained machine from someone whose toolkit consists of more than a hammer and chisel...or who can provide receipts for maintenance by recognised, reputable workshops with expertise in 1950s and 1960s Beemers.
I shan't go into a complete checklist of points to look for because I imagine you know what to look for when buying any used motorbike. But with 1955-69 BMWs, there are a few things you can check before buying, especially if you get a test ride.
The brakes are good but the drums have a tendency to go oval. You'll feel this quickly enough as you brake! Skimming cures it but you still have to keep an eye on the drums.
Look for leaks in the fuel tank, especially with the aftermarket "Schorsch Meier" 24 litre tank. Notorious rust hole spots include the areas behind the retainer for the kneepads on the standard 17 litre tank - they trap water - and the front seams on the Meier tank.
Make sure the dynamo is charging! These can be expensive to repair/replace, especially the regulator. Mark sells a very good electronic replacement which is on one of my bikes. A real fit-and-forget part. But the old electro-mechanical regulator is reliable too. I rough test when looking at a bike for sale is to switch on the headlamp and bring the revs up to around 1800 - 2000 rpm, at which point the full charge rate kicks in: the headlamp beam becomes slightly stronger and then steadies. If this doesn't happen, ask questions.
If you get a test ride, take it for a few miles, not just around the block. Then have a look under the gearbox where the crankcases form a sort of ledge. If there is oil there, you have a weeping rear crank seal. Not too much of a problem but it can cause clutch slip, requiring a bit of feathering to burn the oil off the plates...which is not an ideal situation as clutch plates are expensive.
Anyway, these are just a few little pointers to bring into play when negotiating the purchase of a 1955-69 BMW boxer. You'll find plenty more on this forum and others /2-related websites. The R69S is a fine machine too. If you find one for a reasonable price, snap it up. Almost twice the bhp can't be a bad thing. Of course, it does require more fettling because the motor, in a higher state of tune, is much more sensitive to irregularities.
Prosper Keating