Forum bmwbike.com

I bought a 3-step tank sealing product that was recommended by a couple of BMW restorers, but have not used it. It is called Cycle Tank Repair Kit from POR-15, Inc., P.O. Box 1235, Morristown, NJ 07962-1235, USA, Phone 973-887-1999. Cost is $23.95 plus shipping. It consists of a cleaner, an etcher and a coating. The reason I have not used it are (1) it looks like a lot of trouble and I don't think the tank leaks, and (2) the tank got into the hands of my painter first, and I would not want to get any of these chemicals on a finished tank.

I have a SchorschMeier that is starting to leak. I had it fixed once before where the tank had cracked due to some hard riding, with solder and when I stripped that part back I found that it had been welded before. Yet it still wants to leak. The Solder has lasted two years which isn't bad but I want to do it right this time as I've got the money for a respray proper. I'm worried that the tank might have some rust as well and have heard from resprayers that they don't cut rust out of tanks. What can I do? Is it true rust on these tanks can't be cut out? Whats best for these leaks?

Hi Mark

Our experience has proved itself time and time again that there is no cheap or budget solution to tank repairs. Forget solder and forget the epoxies and polyurethanes. Brassing is only suitable for things like the threaded holders for the tank badges, the petrol tap threaded gland and the filler neck. The rest needs welding with steel rods. Rusted parts are cut out and new sheet metal welded in to take the place. Nothing that a good panel beater or sheet metal worker can't do. Avoid people who use extensive fillers. The tank should always be pressure tested for leaks after such repairs.

The rust inside the tank is handled by filling it up with stones or ceramic grinding media and "tumbling" it for a few hours to remove all rust. The inside is then coated with a special paint.
(either single or two component) to prevent rusting in the future.

Basically, solder or brassing is not strong enough and too brittle for such repairs.

Regards,
Mark
Mark Huggett GmbH

I produce R 51/3 and R25 tank and I start to make the schorsch meier tank ! It need some time to finish ! klaus-juergen

I used the POR 15 tank sealer just over a year ago and it seems to be holding well. The inside of the tank was a real mess but it has original paint that is worth saving so I did not want it "hot tanked" at a rad shop.

I found that battery acid cleaned the inside very well. Haveing a water hose handy I was able to rince any spills off the paint imeadiatly.

The POR 15 will seal any tiny leaks, but if there are cracks from vibration I can't see it holding for long, it is just too hard.