Can anyone please advise on how to disassemble the steering damper on my R26?
It needs to be rechromed, and I'm not sure how the thumb screw and rod are attached..Also the two small ball bearings need to be removed. Is this possible or am I going to have to live with things as they are??
Thanks,
david
R26 Steering Damper Disassembly
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Allan Atherton
Re: R26 Steering Damper Disassembly
Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut under the damper, unscrew the castle nut, unscrew the damper rod from the friction assembly, and pull it out. The chrome knob is part of the rod - at least I have not been able to separate the two. You can rechrome the knob with the ball bearings still in it. If any balls are missing, or their springs, you can order new balls and springs. The balls are the same as used for the steering bearings. The balls are held in the knob by peening - insert the spring and the ball, and then use a punch of the right size to peen the hole a little smaller to hold the ball in.
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Mark Huggett
Re: R26 Steering Damper Disassembly
Hi David,
The shaft is cast into the aluminium diecast thumbscrew, so it cannot be removed. As the thumbscrew part is made of aluminium, it is very difficult to chrome it without getting gas enclosures in the chrome. The main damage is done to this part while the electro platers strip off the old chrome, as the acid attacks the soft aluminium underneath. If the balls are still well held in position, the chromers should try and blank them off with wax so that there is no acid penetration during the electroplating process. The acid attacks the fine springs and the sharp edges of the hole which are exposed to acid attack from 2 directions. Worst of all, during nutralisation after the electroplating, the acid cannot be flushed out properly from behind the steel balls and so they carry on corroding years afterwards. The same applies to acid ingress between the shaft and the alumium head which often becomes slightly loose over the years.
From an economical point of view, its just not worth rechroming the old part. A new one from your official BMW dealer or from our selves may be cheaper, and the shaft is made out of stainless steel. It is in fact a better quality than the original.
Best regards,
Mark
Mark Huggett GmbH
The shaft is cast into the aluminium diecast thumbscrew, so it cannot be removed. As the thumbscrew part is made of aluminium, it is very difficult to chrome it without getting gas enclosures in the chrome. The main damage is done to this part while the electro platers strip off the old chrome, as the acid attacks the soft aluminium underneath. If the balls are still well held in position, the chromers should try and blank them off with wax so that there is no acid penetration during the electroplating process. The acid attacks the fine springs and the sharp edges of the hole which are exposed to acid attack from 2 directions. Worst of all, during nutralisation after the electroplating, the acid cannot be flushed out properly from behind the steel balls and so they carry on corroding years afterwards. The same applies to acid ingress between the shaft and the alumium head which often becomes slightly loose over the years.
From an economical point of view, its just not worth rechroming the old part. A new one from your official BMW dealer or from our selves may be cheaper, and the shaft is made out of stainless steel. It is in fact a better quality than the original.
Best regards,
Mark
Mark Huggett GmbH