Comment on circuit board/ Key switch r69s

[Randy Fischer]

Putting the bits back on my 68 r69s on saturday night....trying to mount the circuit board into the headlight shell is extremely frustrating. Instead of tabs they should have used small bolt and nut. Was there a trick I missed?? Also inserting and removing the key was very tough...needed to use both hands to reef on the key to pull it out! Finally took the key switch apart and removed on of the small ball bearings....now they key goes in and out perfectly! Anybody else run into this? Thanks all..and thanks Mark for this site!

[Allan Atherton]

I have not heard of removing one of the ball bearing detents for the ignition switch. I would rather have the key too hard than too easy. I squeeze thumb and finger on each side of the key and squeeze it out to the off position. This gives more force and control than pulling the key out. Maybe you do it that way, too.

It seems easiest to install the switch and circuit board with the headlight shell upside down in one's lap, with a good light and a stubby screwdriver to bend the tabs. This postion allows strong controlled force to be used while minimizing the chance for damage inside or outside the shell.

[Randy Fischer]

That makes a lot of sense to do it with the headlight shell in your lap. If I ever have to do it again.....

thanks for the tip!

[Mark Huggett]

You guys missed the point on the tight key. Clean up the parts, put BOTH balls back in place and lubricate the balls and two retaining springs with ample vaseline. You'd be surprised what a difference it makes!!!
Gee whiz you guys! even your grand mother could have told about vaseline.

Best regards,

Mark
Mark Huggett GmbH

[DS0'L]

Extending the life of the bending tabs.
A little medication I stumbled on to that I thought I might pass along.
My circuit board was shot and I located a used one in good shape except that the slots for the bend tabs were badly frazzled around the leading edge of where the tab bends over.
For a fix on the board I put a moderate layer / drop of epoxy on the leading damaged edge of each tab slot then redressed the edge just a tiny bit with a exato knife when the epoxt was partialy dried.
When I reassembled the board into the headlamp casing the fresh built up edge of the slots on the board changed the bending point of the tabs significantly.
The tabs bent at a little higher point and the board went nice and tight very rapidly without ever having to bend the tabs flat over as in the past, about a 45 degree angle or maybe even a little less did the trick quite nicely.
I think it is most likely common for these tab slots to get reamed out to the point to where the tabs have to be bent tighter and tighter to secure the board and this condition jeopardizes the life of the bend tabs significantly.
Putting a fresh epoxy edge on the fiber board slot and building it up a mm. may well increase the lifetime of those precious bend tabs significantly.