talking about unbalanced carbs...

[Åke Antonsson]

I am not quiet sure how You do when You balance the carbs ( R60/2 -67 ).
I have a pair of syncronizer gauges but as You surely know there is no place where I can
connect them, I don't want to drill a hole in my carbs ( do I have to ? )
I have seen the "Carbalancer" in the Bing catalog and I understand that this kit contains
an adapter that You can place close to the carburator intake and then connect the hose
between the adapter and the gauge. Is it possible just to bye this kind of adapter anywhere ?
Is there a better way, do anyone have any advice ?

[Allan Atherton]

To balance the carbs, you run the bike on one cylinder at a time, and make adjustments until the motor runs at the same speed on each cylinder.

To run on one cylinder, you can pull and replace the spark plug cap, first on one side, then the other. This is not easy, you can burn or shock your hand, and the motor may backfire from running with a dead cylinder.

A better way is to order little synchronizers (electrode extensions) from Ed Korn in the USA. These fit over the spark plugs and create about 25 cm of exposed electrode. By using two long screwdrivers, and touching each screwdriver to both an electrode and the cylinder, you can quickly and alternately kill each cylinder for a moment. This allows a quick comparison of the speed of each cylinder.
You make this test at idle, and at 3/4 throttle.
The web site of Ed Korn is three Ws dot cycleworks.net

[Bill Wilson]

O.K. Ache, just follow the instructions in your manual as if you've rebuilt the carbs and replaced the cables. It may take a while before you are successful, so place some box fans to blow a breeze on the engine. Or you can do what 's most practical - have a good mechanic adjust them and don't fiddle with anything once done. I'm rebuilding my CV Bings for a R75/5 and will have the local Harley Shop fine tune them after I lurch in on the initial settings. I rather pay for peace of mind & convenience than beat my head against the wall in frustration!!!

[erik jaderquist]

ake...ihave the best advice of all. First, understand that the original bings are at best german Amals. They are leaking, flooding, poor metering and hail from the dawn of carburation. I replaced mine with 24mm mikunis with wonderful results. ( I had to machine up two new manifolds) If you really must stay with the originals then please replace the floats and float needle seat (located in the carb top) carry at least one spare float and never use the side stand because the left side usually hangs up and floods the left cylinder and crankcase- you will here it when you try to kick it over with a crankcase full of fuel. I drilled the bing bodies and inserted a brass tube permanently, easily capped by rubber vacuum caps available at any auto parts store (buy spares) It is the only, only way to do it. The best synchronizer is electronic and is sold in CLASSIC BIKE. Once adjusted bings seem to stay in tune for a while. It is well worth the effort . I have come to the realization that vintage bikes really have awfull carburation and ignition . On my /2 I converted to 12 volts and machined up an adapter for a boyer ignition from a /5. It is a much improved bike although still slow and poor of brakes and gearbox. I never expected to see such a prehistoric rock crusher of a gearbox in a BMW. This one I can't engineer my way out of. I also own a 1966 Norton Atlas and I call them the tortoise and the Hare. The BMW is slow and steady and reliable. The Norton is much more exciting but I would be a fool to take it on a long trip. out of room mercury guages work well but a better unit, asmall electronic box advertised

[John Todd]

Erik, can you contact me please j.todd@bhtafe.edu.au I am most interested in you carby
conversion and want to know more. Regards John.