Yah, I cleaned the splash rings.But this guy has been apart too long for me to remember all the parts and places. Is there a spacer washer between the rear bearing and the crank? And if not, where does the washer go that I put in there? Does the champhered
side of the front washer face the crank? Is there another washer next and then the gear?
That's the washer I put between the crank and the rear bearing,hu. This isn't fun anymore. Yes, I have a Behelfs-Katalog
R69S Putten it back togather
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Pablo Prato
Re: R69S Putten it back togather
Hello: may be you coud help yourself checking the order of the spare pices in the draw in the Auxiliary Catalogue.
Those are good
Check it.
Those are good
Check it.
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brockd@telusplanet.net
Re: R69S Putten it back togather
Hi Bryan,
When instaling the crankshaft, the goal is to have the connecting rods exactly in the centre of the cylinder sleeve holes in the block AND the crank will roll over without excessive resistance/drag, once the front main bearing carrier is buttoned up. Now for your questions:
Yes, there is a spacer between the rear bearing and the crank/slinger ring.
Yes, the chamfered side faces away from the crank.
Note: Some engines have a second spacer next to the front chamfered spacer. So, either you have two spacers or three spacers in your engine. One in the back and one (or possibly two) in the front. Again, this is to ensure the rods end up in the center of the bore holes on the block. Once you have this crutial portion completed, you can move forward with reassembling the rest of the engine. If you want we can talk about this off line. Let me know.
I just went through this performance where a local owner bought a bike from Germany where the rebuilder put an R60/2 crank in an R50/2 block some years ago. (It ran fine, yet we wanted to check the slingers.) The spacer thicknesses were wrong and the rods were pushing the piston pins off center. With the help of Vech, we came to the same conclusion - wrong spacer thickness in the front of the crank. Exciting (frustrating) times, yet very good learing opportunities. Now it is very straight forward. It also helps significantly to have a push/pull tool like Ed Korn builds. This tool and heat make things come apart and go together so much easier. The other consideration is the flexable rear main bearing you have - the rollers must be in nuetral position in the bearing cage, otherwise there is drag once the front carrier is back in place. Ed Korn's allignment tool is really helpful here. There are a number of factors here, yet if you can re-assemble the R69S engine, you can re-assemble any of the other models. If you have someone to walk you through it and fill in the gaps in the manual, you can do it. Keep the faith!
Brock
When instaling the crankshaft, the goal is to have the connecting rods exactly in the centre of the cylinder sleeve holes in the block AND the crank will roll over without excessive resistance/drag, once the front main bearing carrier is buttoned up. Now for your questions:
Yes, there is a spacer between the rear bearing and the crank/slinger ring.
Yes, the chamfered side faces away from the crank.
Note: Some engines have a second spacer next to the front chamfered spacer. So, either you have two spacers or three spacers in your engine. One in the back and one (or possibly two) in the front. Again, this is to ensure the rods end up in the center of the bore holes on the block. Once you have this crutial portion completed, you can move forward with reassembling the rest of the engine. If you want we can talk about this off line. Let me know.
I just went through this performance where a local owner bought a bike from Germany where the rebuilder put an R60/2 crank in an R50/2 block some years ago. (It ran fine, yet we wanted to check the slingers.) The spacer thicknesses were wrong and the rods were pushing the piston pins off center. With the help of Vech, we came to the same conclusion - wrong spacer thickness in the front of the crank. Exciting (frustrating) times, yet very good learing opportunities. Now it is very straight forward. It also helps significantly to have a push/pull tool like Ed Korn builds. This tool and heat make things come apart and go together so much easier. The other consideration is the flexable rear main bearing you have - the rollers must be in nuetral position in the bearing cage, otherwise there is drag once the front carrier is back in place. Ed Korn's allignment tool is really helpful here. There are a number of factors here, yet if you can re-assemble the R69S engine, you can re-assemble any of the other models. If you have someone to walk you through it and fill in the gaps in the manual, you can do it. Keep the faith!
Brock
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Bryan
Re: R69S Putten it back togather
Hi Brock,
Please send your email address.
I'm pretty sure that I have two washers on the front of my crank, one thick champhered and one thin and then the gear but I'm not putting it togather again until I get a consensus. Ive
had this thing in and out three times now . I
heat the case,give it a couple taps and it pops
right in. What does Ed's tool do that I'm not doing already?
Thanks, Bryan
Please send your email address.
I'm pretty sure that I have two washers on the front of my crank, one thick champhered and one thin and then the gear but I'm not putting it togather again until I get a consensus. Ive
had this thing in and out three times now . I
heat the case,give it a couple taps and it pops
right in. What does Ed's tool do that I'm not doing already?
Thanks, Bryan
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Joe Hersevoort
Re: R69S Putten it back togather
Hey Bryan; The chamfer goes towards the crank.If you look closely at the crank bearing seat you see that it has a radius. If you put the chamfer out ,the square edge will bind on the radius. The R69S also has a spherical rear main that requires a tool to hold it center when installing the crank. Good luck,Joe